Monday, February 26, 2007

food memory


After Christmas I had an encounter with food memory.

Apparently, the homemade Transylvanian sausages and goose hadn't worked over the holidays. So I decided to make some friends a proper English Sunday Nostalgia Pheasant.

The bread sauce and forcemeat recipes are from the head of my mother on the phone. It was like a taste road trip of childhood, maybe dating to some weekend return of father from a pheasant shoot in Wyoming and my mum's cooking of the game.

Forcemeat (for pheasant or chicken)

Breadcrumbs homemade from dry bread
Rind of whole lemon more or less
Parsley to taste (lots—4 bunches)
Salt and pepper
Grated butter (2 nuts or more)
Beaten egg (2 or 3)
Make “paste,” mould in spoon with a cupped hand, cook in piping hot dripping, duck fat, lard four to seven at a time, crispy and brown.

Bread sauce

Onion spiked with cloves
Warm in milk (half liter) to give flavor
Breadcrumbs (2 oz or so, added at last minute, not cooked or roasted)
Nutmeg and salt and white pepper to season

Roast potatoes and parsnips

Five potatoes, five parsnips, cut in halves/quarters, preboil in salted water to softer than imagined softness of al dente
Last 20 minutes of pheasant cooking, on lower shelf, bung this in, having about 50 percent of the drained substantial grease from the roast pheasant. Turn occasionally, so relatively golden brown in about ½ inch of grease.

Nostalgia roast pheasant legs

Eight frozen pheasant legs (1.5 kilo)
Defrost, clean (looking for shot), wash and drain
Rub with salt, lavender, summer savory—sprinkle with a shot of whisky, put aside
Make a fat mixture of foie gras fat, goose fat, and pork fat (bacon, belly) (all Christmas leftovers)
Bake 75 min in preheated oven hot
Cover lightly after 30 mins
Baste frequently, make sure bottom does not burn

With cabbage salad and
2002 Duzsi Tamas Kadarka
Also good with game chips

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

santomense picky nicky


In Sao Tome, you forget that everyone's black within about two minutes. Not much hassle. There are few tourists in Sao Tome, so it's kind of paradise unspoiled unlike places like Bali, Thai, etc... We had a young taxi driver named Bubu we used regularly to get around when we needed him.

Accommodation ranged from a botanical garden to church dormitory to colonial house to flat above a bar to a bungalow on the beach... If you need contacts, write.

We brought back all kinds of stuff: local lemon grass (folio de principe), tiny little gingers, fresh turmeric, different kinds of peppers (chilis and piment), seven fresh cocoa pods, jackfruit, about 50 vanilla pods (bought for about 10 bucks), 4 kilos or more of wonderful coffee (just 20 euros a kilo in Lisbon for the stuff from Sao Tome), a few parafin lamps made from sausage tins, cloth, kola nuts, safu, micondo, ossami, malagita...

Tomorrow, we'll make dinner at our house. The menu, for a select few, is:

Ementa:

Amendoas de kola
Cacau fresca

Safu
Feijoada a moda da terra com bacalhau e farinha de mandioca
Arroz com ananas e acafrao-das-indias
Carneiro com malageta e limao

Jaca fresca
Cafe de monte cafe


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